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The Silk Road

Read about the wandering of Sonoma County winemaster Kerry Damskey. First up: a trip to Nasik, India to check on the vineyards. Vineyards in India??? That's right. Nearly 10 years ago, Kerry was thrilled to find the optimum growing region for grapes in India and has since developed a love of the Nasik region. Come along for sights, smells, tastes and new friends...

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Name: Kerry Damskey
Location: Sonoma County, California,

Dubbed the "Wandering Winemaker" by friends, Kerry Damskey has been infusing his love of the land and adventure into every aspect of life. From leading whitewater rafting tours to hiking up the face of Mt. Whitney, Kerry believes in the terroir of the soul. Winemaking is the passion fusion of Kerry's scientific mind and adventurous heart. He is joined on this journey by his wife Daisy.

Monday, March 12, 2007

Celebrating the full moon in Nasik

Daisy here, blogging for the both of us...
We will be leaving Nasik today and driving on the famous road to Mumbai! Our trip up to Nasik was by train and was in a first class cabin with leather sleepers and air conditioning. Now that they know that I am such a hearty gal, we are driving back on a highway known worldwide as an automotive free for all!

It makes me sad to leave the bunglow at Sula, it has been such a perfect visit. For the last week we have been involved in all aspects of the winery from marketing meetings to tracking through the vineyards. Sula is tucked away next to a large hill covered with feathery tropical trees and two temples. Kerry climbs to the top of the hill followed by the three winery dogs every morning before any one is up and the air is still cool. The dogs now expect this walk and stand outside our window like crowing roosters, barking at 5:30 am. They obviously don't understand English because they keep up the chorus despite our pleas until Kerry puts on his boots and heads out for the hill.

Sula's growing at an amazing clip, 40% growth last year alone. The challenge is educating the local farmers, who are grafting from table grapes, in good wine growing viticultural practices. Kerry has been instrumental in this changing grape culture and the local university is now offering a two year viticultural program. The wines are really good! My favorite is the Sauv. Blanc. Sula has just planted 200 new acres and is contracting with many local farmers for new planting. Nasik is over 2,000 years old as has been an agricultural center for all that time, it will be no time at all until the farmers have mastered growing grapes for wine.

This time of year is called Holli and is a celebration of the new year. It matches up with the first full moon of March and is celebrated by throwing bright colored dye at everyone. Dogs, cows, goats and children walk down the street covered in Magenta and blue. The colors represent the flowers that will soon be in bloom and the passing of the old year, erasing all things negative and forgiving transgressions against neighbors and friends. I tried to get our driver to let me out of the car to jump into the exchange of colors, but he ignored me, probably thinking this crazy American in the white blouse.

Tomorrow Kerry and I are headed to Rajasthan, the land of the maharaja.

Friday, March 09, 2007

March in Mumbai

21 hours is a long time to travel, at about 12 hours it becomes a life style. I am still not sure what day you are in, but I suspect it is Friday. Mumbai is a wild and ALIVE city! Beautiful colonel ruins next to neon shrines to Krishna. Zillions of people, all very polite and beautiful to see. Rainbow women everywhere with gold and veils covering their faces. All amazing and unreal. Not everyone would love this altered state of being...the cars don't even select a lane and yet, it seems alright.

Indians love their dogs..really love their dogs. If one had only a scrap they would share the wealth. We arrived and our driver was waiting for us, wisking up our bags and carting our things to an awaiting SUV. We spent the night at Raj's parents home. The house is stately and has a large round driveway with mature tropical plantings and a fleet of cars with drivers for the various businesses. Everything looks very old and very used with rickey stairs that lead up to large dark door, enter and everything is white and bright. Very low key and very proper. The house cooks waited up to take care of us, even though we got in well after midnight. We stayed up with BABA, Raj's dad and drank great single malt scotch until 3:30 am, going to bed with ceiling fans and light cotton covers.

In the morning wild parrots made us keenly aware we were not in Sonoma. What a wonderful wake up call.. we quickly ate a typical Indian breakfast of fresh fruit and cooked grains. the Chi is made at the table and the spices, subdue pace and the calm of the home was a contrast to the wild pace of the morning streets.

to be continued!